Six Foot
Track
Katoomba to Jenolan
Caves.
The Six Foot Track is the best way to get the true feel of NSW’s
rich history and its evolution over the last 200 years. Winding through State
forests and National parks, the track follows the 45 kilometre route of the
original 1884 horse track from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves.
The Six Foot Track begins at the Explorers'
Tree on the Great Western Highway between
Katoomba and Medlow Bath.
The track follows the
route of the original horse track marked from Katoomba to
Jenolan Caves in
1884. The route is down Nellie's
Glen and through the
Megalong Valley to
Cox's River, over the
Mini Mini Range to
Little River, up the Black
Range and down the
Binoomea Ridge to Jenolan
Caves.
The whole Six Foot Track is about
42 kilometres long and usually takes three
days to walk
the whole track, but shorter walks can also be taken on sections of the track
where road access is possible, making the track a perfect day trip or overnight
camping experience.
Steeped in history, the
track begins at the
Explorers' Tree on the
great Western Highway
between Katoomba and
Medlow Bath and heads
down through Nellie's
Glen, past Bonnie Doon
Falls and into the
Megalong Valley to the
historic Megalong
Village.
From here, it continues
through the
valley, following the
Cox's River, which you
will cross by the
Bowtells Swing Bridge
before arriving at the
Cox's River campsite.
The next section of the
track takes you over the
Mini Mini Saddle to the
Alum Creek campsite
which leads you to
Little River, a
tributary of the Cox's
River. From here, climb
up the Black Range to
the highest point of the
track before heading
down the Binoomea Ridge
to Jenolan Caves.
The track crosses
differences in altitude,
aspect, climate and soil
types, leading to a wide
variety of flora,
including eucalyptus,
wattles, tree ferns and
other vegetation.
Walkers are also likely
to see native mammals
such as kangaroos,
wallaroos, echidnas,
wombats and swamp
wallabies and at night,
possums may be seen in
trees. Lizards
and snakes are common
and Nellie's Glen
butterflies may be seen
as will the 150 bird
species which have been
identified along the
track.
Historical Background
1818-1884
Megalong is an Aboriginal name thought to
mean `valley under the
rock'. The
earliest official records of the Megalong Valley
date back to 1818 when a
botanist named Thomas Jones
followed the course of
Cox's River downstream from
Hartley. For the next 20
years cattlemen from Burragorang
and Camden came to graze
their stock on fertile land around Cox's River.
The
first grant of land in the Megalong area was in 1838,
after Surveyor W.H.
Davidson marked off a one square mile
area (640 acres or 260
hectares).
Later settlers used
Megalong Cleft, also known as Black's
Ladder and then Nellie's
Glen for access to the ridgetops. Nellie's Glen was named after the daughter of
J.B. North, an
early Katoomba businessman.
The
Jenolan Caves were discovered in 1838. Access for visitors was particularly
difficult. Even after the construction of the western railway around 1870,
visitors who
travelled over the Blue Mountains to Tarana railway station had to complete the
journey by horse and buggy, over a rough and sometimes impassable coach road.
The trip from Sydney often took up to 24 hours.
1884-1984
Acting on the advice of Mr Peter Fitzpatrick
of Burragorang, the
Premier of New South Wales, the Hon. Alexander Stuart ordered that a search be
undertaken to find
a horse track from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves.
A
Government survey party was duly appointed consisting of Mr W.M. Cooper,
Surveyor of Public Parks, Mr Mayes of the Department of Mines, Mr Freeman of
the Department of
Lands and three others. They were to
be met at Katoomba by
Peter Fitzpatrick, who was to be the guide.
The
group left Sydney on 24th March, 1884 and travelled by train to Katoomba,
staying the night at George Rowell's
Great Western Hotel,
later re-named the Carrington,
On the following day they descended the
Katoomba cliffs at Narrowneck by a rough zig-zag path into the Megalong
Valley. A first base
camp was made on the Megalong Creek.
It was thought that
Black's Ladder might provide better access into the valley from Katoomba, so the
survey party
blazed a fresh route from the Megalong Creek camp up
Nellie's Glen to the
Explorers' Tree on Pulpit Hill. This was
the most difficult section
of the survey and took four days
to complete.
The
party then marked a route to Cox's River and a second base camp was established
at Little River. From there a route was found which ascended the Black Range.
They
reached Jenolan Caves on 3rd April, 1884, having marked the route with blazed
trees. It had taken 11 days to
mark the 26 miles (about
42 kilometres) of bridle track.
The
New South Wales Parliament consequently granted 2,500 pounds for its
construction.
Travellers could now ride
from Katoomba to the Caves in less than eight hours. The new track became
popular and was
described in the 1894 issue of the
Blue Mountains Railway Tourist Guide
as `steep in
places, but the romantic
beauty of the surroundings
amply compensates for the roughness of the ground'.
The Six Foot Track, as it
became known, was maintained for many years by two men using a wheelbarrow,
picks and shovels.
Kerosene shale was
discovered in the Megalong Valley in 1870 and in 1892 a mine was opened. An
unplanned village sprang up on the Six Foot Track at Megalong, with miners'
huts, a school,
hall, hotel and a nearby Post Office. The
village had up to 200
residents at its peak, but declined rapidly when mining ceased in 1897. Many of
the buildings were
demolished and the materials used in Katoomba.
For
a period commencing about 1896 the Royal Mail
was delivered daily except
Sundays, by packhorse from
Katoomba, via Nellie's
Glen, Chaplow Creek and Mount
Sandy to a Post Office at
Cullenbenbong, near Hampton.
This was known as the
`Pony Mail'.
For about 20 years from
the 1880s to the early 1900s a
small community of
settlers was resident around Cox's River crossing. This included the Dysons,
O'Reillys and the
aboriginal Lynch family. The ruins of Dyson's log hut are
still evident, but these
are on private property.
In about 1904 a road link
from Megalong Valley via
Blackheath Glen to
Blackheath was opened. This provided improved access to the valley, and horse
and bullock team,, were more easily used for the transport of goods.
A
road was also completed from Mt. Victoria to Jenolan Caves via Hampton. Motor
vehicles became more popular,
and therefore the number
of people using the Six Foot Tray
had declined by the 1930s.
Sections of the original Six Foot Track from the bottom
of Nellie's Glen to the
Megalong Creek crossing, and frorr Cox's River over the Black Range were
converted into roa,
or fire trails.
1985
to the present
One hundred years after it
was first blazed, the historic track from Katoomba to the Jenolan Caves was
re-marked by the Orange Lands Office. Signpo; were erected and stiles
constructed, so that walkers could again follow the route of the Six Foot Track.
Accommodation
Primitive camping is
available at Cox's River, Alum Creek and on the Black Range. There is also a
camping ground a Jenolan Caves. Accommodation is available at Binda Flats
and Jenolan Caves House.
A number of tour operators also
offer guided walks on the
Six Foot Track
Jenolan
Caves
The
Gundungurra or Gandangara tribe who originally
inhabited the Jenolan
Caves area called the locality around the caves Binoomea. Jenolan is an
Aboriginal place-name
leaning `high mountain'.
As early as 1823,
Europeans had settled at Bullock Flats, and
this area was re-named Oberon on 4th July 1863. Stealing (duffing) of cattle
flourished in the 1820s and 830s. It is possible that infamous figures such as
James and L,eonard
Cheetham. Luke White and James Farney used the
ayes during this period
as a hiding place.
Property owners James and
Charles Whalan were given the credit for the re-capture of escaped convict James
McKeown and
discovery of the Jenolan Caves in 1838. The caves became known as the Fish River
Caves. Binda or Bindo C.aves
and later the Jenolan Caves.
The
Arch, Nettle and Elder Caves were discovered in the
840s and soon became
popular with visitors. Initially access
o the caves was through
McKeown's Valley with visitors staying overnight at the Whalan property.
Mr
Jeremiah Wilson explored deeper into the Elder Cave
a 1856. Visitation
increased after this, as did vandalism,
n January 1860, Jeremiah
Wilson was in a group which
Discovered and explored a
new cave which in 1878 was
Lamed the Lucas Cave after
John Lucas, M.L.A.
Wilson later
discovered the Imperial Cave, the Left Imperial Cave and the
Mammoth Cave.
The
first Reserve for the Preservation of the Fish River saves was gazetted on 2nd
October, 1866.
On
8th March, 1867, the Government Gazette stated that Mr Jeremiah Wilson had been
appointed `Keeper of the
Caves' at an annual
salary of 25 pounds.
Efforts were made to accommodate visitors, and a dancing platform was erected
under the Grand Archway in 1869. The zig-zag road down the hill on the Oberon
side of the Caves
was completed in 1879, providing travellers with direct road
access to the area for the
first time.
The
Jenolan Caves were officially named on
19th August 1884.
Flora and Fauna
Mammals
It is very likely that
Australian native
mammals will be
seen when walking on the Six
Foot Track. The most
common species are
the Grey Kangaroo,
the Wallaroo, the
Echidna, the
Wombat and the Swamp Wallaby. Brushtail and Ringtail Possums may be seen in the
trees around the campfire at night. Gliding Possums are indigenous to the area,
but are not often seen.
The
Brush-tailed Rock-wallaby was common around
Jenolan Caves, but
sightings are now rare. A captive breeding
program is underway to
assist the recovery of this species.
Birds
At least 150 bird species
have been seen along the Six Foot Track. The main families are the hunting
birds, parrots, flycatchers, thornbills and honeyeaters. As well as
the resident species, the
observant walker might see migratory
honeyeaters during the
autumn and spring migration times. Cuckoos, martins, flycatchers and
woodswallows also migrate into the area during summer. There is a
chance of seeing rare
birds, such as the
Glossy Black
Cockatoo and the Peregrine Falcon.
Lizards
In warm weather walkers
will see a variety of
lizards. Those most
likely to be seen are the Mountain
Dragon and Blotched
Blue-tongued Lizard at Katoomba, the Jacky Lizard and Cunningham's Skink at
Megalong and the
Eastern Water Dragon at Jenolan. Walkers might
encounter a Goanna. as
colonies of Lace Monitors live along
Cox's River. Although
they can look menacing these large
lizards are not aggressive
or poisonous and are harmless to
humans if left alone.
Snakes
Snakes are sometimes seen
on the Six Foot Track during the warmer
months. The most common are the Red-bellied
Black Snake, the Eastern Brown Snake and the
Copperhead. The Common Death Adder and the
Tiger Snake have also been
encountered. All of the snakes likely to be seen are poisonous. Snakes are
protected by law. Do not go near them
or interfere with them.
The Nellie's Glen
Butterfly (Pseudalmenus chlorinda
chloris)
was first described in
1914. It is dark brown with
distinctive orange and
yellow markings on
top of the wings. Its
white silky underwings
with thin black
lines give rise to its common name of
Silky Hairstreak. While it
is not considered
endangered, this butterfly is dependent for its survival on a complex and
relatively rare association of
certain
Acacia
food plants, an
Iridomyrmex
ant and a cool,
moist microclimate, as
found in Nellie's Glen.
Flora
Walkers will notice a wide
variety of vegetation types along
the Six Foot Track,
resulting from differences in altitude,
aspect, climate and soil
type.
At
the Katoomba Track Head, high sandstone plateau
species such as
Peppermint (Eucalyptus piperita)
and
the magnificent Mountain
Ash (Eucalyptus oreades)
are most noticeable.
In
the cool, moist rainforest climate of Nellie's Glen
Coachwood
(Ceratopetalum apetalum)
dominates, with
the quaintly named Black Wattle
(Callicoma serratifolia),
Cedar Wattle (Acacia elata)
and King Fern (Todea
barbara)
also in abundance. A rich variety of rarer
shrubs and ferns can also be observed.
From
the foot of Nellie's Glen, superb specimens of
Sydney Red Gum
(Angophora costata)
are seen, along
with Tree Ferns
(Cyathea australis).
The
sandstone soils of the Megalong Valley are noted for stands of the distinctive
Scribbly Gum
(Eucalyptus
sclerophylla),
the unusual markings on the trunks being
caused by insect larvae
feeding under the bark. Many of
the common understorey
plants along the Track can be
seen in this area,
especially
Acacia, Banksia, Lomatia, Hakea,
Leptospermum, Hardenbergia, Wahlenbergia
and
Indigofera species.
As
the granite soil is encountered
,
the forest
gives way to a more open
woodland of Roughbarked Apple
(Angophora floribunda),
Kurrajong
(Brachychiton populneus)
and
Manna Gum
(Eucalyptus viminalis).
In the valley floors
beside the Megalong Creek and Cox's River there are
impressive stands of River
Oak (Casuarina
cunninghamiana),
Manna Gum and Forest Red
Gum (Eucalyptus tereticornis).
As
walkers ascend the Black Range the tree species
change to Grey Gum
(Eucalyptus punctata)
and
Stringybark
(Eucalyptus blaxlandii). A
common
understory plant is Blackwood (Acacia
melanoxylon), after which the
Black Range was probably named. The Narrow-leaved Peppermint
(Eucalyptus radiata)
and the Mountain Gum
(Eucalyptus dalrympleana)
can also be seen.
Aboriginal heritage
The area around Cox's
River was always important to
Aboriginal people. The
Gundungurra or Gandangara
speaking people moved
nomadically among the Burragorang, Megalong and Hartley Valleys using pathways
such as the Black Dog Pass and Medlow Gap, part of the dreamtime journey of
Gurangatch and Mirragan. There is
much evidence of
Aboriginal camps along Megalong Creek and Cox's River.
Regular contact occurred
between the Aboriginal people and early European settlers. The Six Foot
Track passes the site of
the last recorded Gundungurra
corroboree and the cricket
ground where all-Aboriginal
teams played the Megalong
settlers in the 1890s.
Bowtell's Swing Bridge
The suspension bridge
over Cox's River was opened on 23rd April 1992 as an alternative crossing for
walkers at times of heavy flow in the river. The bridge was fabricated and
transported to the site, where it was constructed by soldiers of the 1st Field
Squadron of the Royal Australian Engineers, Holsworthy Army Base.
The
bridge is named in memory of Corporal Robert Walter Bowtell, the first member-
of this unit to be killed during the Vietnam war in 1966
Acknowledgments.
Information
was drawn from brochure of NSW Land & Conservation Department.
The
brochure was made possible by a Commonwealth
grant under the National
Ecotourism Program.
Jim Smith
assisted with the writing and editing of the text.
Support,
information and photographs were also supplied by:
• Australian Museum •
Royal Botanic Gardens •
CSIRO Division
of Entomology •
State Library of New South
Wales.